Hong Kong!

I am not kidding, this is the hostel we are staying in. It's not as bad as it looks. I got this picture from the internet for dramatic purposes.

This is the ChungKing Mansion building, refered to as the "black tooth" of this neighbourhood - otherwise filled with high end designer stores. But the price is right, y'all.


We're now in HK, and it is pretty cool/nuts. Taipei is to Victoria as Hong Kong is to Vancouver in terms of city comparisons (like my SAT phrasing?). We're staying in this infamous, old, grimy building called ChungKing Mansions, and there are all sorts of dubious (but most likely harmless charaters in the lobby/mall/entrance area. The room is small, basic but clean enough.

The skyline from Kowloon bay, where we are staying, is unreal - the buildings are all lit up and they go on forever. This city is bonkers. They had this (sorta cheesy) laser light show (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpfBlW4vuLI&feature=related) where the buildings light up and there are laser beams (pew, pew, pew!) that shoot into the sky in time with music. At the beginning they "introduce" the participating buildings and as they say their names the buildings do this little light flashy display, and I swear it is the building equivalent of the introductions made on this video (http://www.buzzfeed.com/rebeccae/country-hip-hop-dancing). I was giggling to myself with the mental imagery of it all.

Pinglin!

Today we went over to Pinglin, which is a small town/village about an hour bus ride from Taipei. It is famous (wait a minute while I google this) for "Bāozhŏngchá" tea. And I'll admit, that we didn't actually drink any, and that's because it was hot today, as in I-got-a-sunburn hot. And I know, I know, supposedly drinking hot drinks actually cools you down, but as I may have mentioned I didn't really pack any summer clothes - so I'm schlepping around in jeans in the baking sun and hot tea lost to cold water in the battle to get ingested.

It was a really lovely little town, and we rented some bikes and went on a cruise by the river and the tea fields. The town has built this bike/walking path, so it was a perfect. We also had an interesting dining experience which I will post about separately.

Tea fields! There were lots of them, and they had this interesting row pattern that looked like some one had corn-rowed (as in braiding) the hillside. Apparently near the end of March they pick the young tea leaves and it's super good tea.

Kris went for a dip in the river. It was a really clean, clear river and there were all sorts of swimming spots along the way. The temp is pretty summery here - I'm going to guess about 26-28 degrees. PS. There are no water snakes in Taiwan - I checked.

View of the forest and river from our bike ride. It was all jungle-y and lush with this river wandering through. Pretty incredible!

Same view but with Kris and my faces in front of it. My hair is all wind blown because they didn't give us helmets. As you know, I am very pro-helmet so this bike ride was a compromise in beliefs, but I survived! You'll also notice the rosy-cheeked beginning of the first sunburn of the season.

These were our trusty steeds. The guide book told us to walk up this road to this place where they would be for rent - so we walked up this random road for about 10 minutes and then took a chance on this sign at the base of a driveway that lead us to this weird campground, and they had this shed full of bikes. I handed over my driver's license and BAM these sweet bikes were ours for the day.

Say Aroma one more time.

The exquisitely refined aroma of this beer is from ... fine aroma hops and aroma hops. I think it's the second aroma hops that really make this beer "exquisite". I drank one of these (Yebisu) last night, it was good. We also ate at what I am calling "the Sake Maki of Taipei", aka Sumi Sushi. It's our new sushi joint, and it is good. Coincidentally, it's owned by a couple who lived in Vancouver and had a similar restaurant there. So that's probably why we like it so much. Sushi rolls in Taipei don't seem to be as abundant as they are in Vancouver. There is lot's of sushi restaurants that serve raw fish on rice, but not all rolled up with sauces and stuff like I like.

Danshui

Godzilla says eat cuttle fish! Oddly the ones on the left were 10NT more, but they looked exactly the same. There are some things I will probably never know.

There's Kris! For an extra 10NT you could get a ice cream cone that had double the height of ice cream you see here. So, like a foot of ice cream.


We went to Danshui, which is a suburb of Taipei city. We cruised the board walk, ate some ice cream and hung out. It's kind of like the "White Rock" of Taipei, people go there to get a sea breeze, eat some ice cream, hold hands and stroll around.

Speaking of strolling, ever since I listened to this podcast (http://www.radiolab.org/2010/oct/08/its-alive/) about how you can measure the personality of a city based on the speed that it's residents walk, I take notice of walking pace. Now, I like to think of myself as a pretty fast walker - I've even been told I have a big stride (credit: co-oworker Ashley) in addition to my fast pace. Now that I've been a bit limpy, I am walking way slower, and by slower I mean at the exact same pace as everyone in Taipei. Seriously, it's like Sunday morning on Commercial drive in slow motion up in here. Even with my bum-foot I'm passing people. What does it mean? Perhaps people are more relaxed here, or maybe it's because all the ladies are wearing heels. I dunno.

In other news, I'm feeling a little bummed right now because we could be doing some hiking right now but I'm still a bit wobbly on the old feet. Every day I get a bit better, but still not hiking ready. Soon I'll be sending pictures from canyons and mountains, I promise. Alternatively, Kris and I are toying with the idea of Hong Kong DisneyLand. I think it would be pretty cool if we do decide to go. I'll keep you posted.

Hot springs!

Yesterday we went to Beitou hot springs. It was a quick metro ride away, and only 40NT (or about $1.25) to enter. There were five pools. Cold, colder, warm, warmer, hot. It was lovely, we went from hot to cold and back again a bunch of times and hung out with the retirees that were there. It's a rough life.

The only unfortunate thing is that I "lost" my green scarf. I use quotations because I think one of those retirees STOLE it. Yeah. One minute the scarf was there, I come out of the change room and BAM it's gone. I bet some lady is stroking my scarf and laughing diabolically right now. That, or it's in a lost and found box for eternity.

The picture above isn't mine, because the sign said not to take pictures, but some rebel did take a picture so I stole it.

Sights! Part 1

We went for a long walk the other night, and found a temple (two actually) and a night market.

Night market goodies. I think these are of the boiled meats variety.

Lanterns. The whole building was festooned with them. That's right, festooned.

Temple gates at night.

Temple at night. I think one of my legs is shorter than the other, my pictures always have a tilt. Kris says he can tell if I've taken a picture by it.

Hello, pup. I had to adjust the setting on my camera a bazillion times so I could take his picture in the dim light, and he just sat there patiently.

Sights! Part 2

Fruit. I think that if someone sold cut up fruit in Vancouver people would buy it. Such a tasty snack. Street vendors are hot now, so some one get on that.

Night market. Bright, busy and tasty. At this market, near the end there was an old lady sitting next to a table full of dildos. True story. It's funny because the rest of the market was very G-rated. Mostly socks and sparkly iphone cases.
Sausage and grilled cuttle-fish. Grilled cuttle-fish must be good, since I've seen it all over Asia, but I have yet to try it.

Soups and meats. Steamy and delicious.

Just guessing, but I think this is fish head soup? Probably good, but all I can think is "Casssssssie, don't eat meeeeeee", all looking up at me with those slimy eyes and stuff.

Taipei 101 + doi.

The colour of the lights corresponds with the days of the week. Red = Monday.

The buildings beside 101 are not small either, but it dwarfs them. If you want to geek-out on the engineering of it all, talk to Kelsey. It's build to withstand typhoon winds (sturdy) and earthquakes (flexible), so it's a testament to engineering.
Me, pre-jump.
Kris was just standing there, so I said "do something" and this was his go-to move. Hee hee.


Last night we hiked up elephant mountain - well, to clarify, we climbed up the stairs. It was about 400m, and it's pretty crazy how abruptly the city stopped and really thick, lush forest began. At the top of the path is a great vantage point to view the Taipei 101 tower - the world's second largest building (the Burj Khalifa in Dubai is now the highest). It is crazy how big this thing is - it almost looks silly next to the other buildings. Learn more here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taipei_101

At the top of the path, there are a series of large boulders that people have carved and climbed on. In a moment of bravery/stupidity I hopped from one boulder to the next but after I cleared the small gap I had to scuttle down the slope of the second boulder and then jump off of it - about a 4 foot drop. No big deal, except I was wearing keds and I landed in some mud and sort of sprained my ankle. Doi. Especially since we have free time right now, and I'm not moving too fast. It seems okay though, just slightly swollen and I got a compression sock thingy plus ice to help it heal. We're taking it easy today (Kris is none too impressed thogh, because he told me not to jump) and hopefully I'll be up and at 'em tomorrow.

Sigh! I always say that "I'm not a good climber", and am usually a huge wuss when it comes to stuff like this, but for some reason I just HAD to try make the jump. I can't explain it. Tsk, tsk when will I learn?

So, while I ask you to send the majority of healing laser beams to Kris, can you pew! pew! one or two my way too?

L+P.

DinTaiFung!

Keep smiling little guy. I'munna eat you.

Yum.

Kris, following the instructions.

Yum! DinTaiFung was rated as one of the top gourmet restaurants in the world according to the New York Times. We went for an early lunch and let me tell you, those little dumplings are to die for.

They come in a bamboo steamer basket, and there are ten little guys in there. At first you're like "whoa, that's too many!" but then you eat them and you're all "MORE! MORE! MORE!", eyes wild, ready to pounce on the next steamer basket that comes past your face. (Kind of like this cartoon: http://hyperboleandahalf.blogspot.com/2010/10/god-of-cake.html)

How to enjoy them, according to the instructions: First you pluck them from their resting place, and gently bathe them in a bath of vinegar and soy sauce. Then you poke their little casing to release the delicious brothy goodness inside. Then, if you like, you top them with the grated ginger provided. Then you gobble it. Repeat.

Luckily, there is a branch of this restaurant in Seattle. Hooray!

Sights!

We had varying degrees of luck when it comes to coffee. True, there are Starbucks' everywhere, but I'm not really a fan of their coffee (call me a coffee snob). That said, I have had two excellent cups of coffee so far. Delicious coffee No.1: At a overly cute, probably Japanese, tea/cake/coffee shop. The theme of the place was "country-quaint", complete with little kitten figurines. The coffee (cappuccino) was delicious, and they sprinkled it with cinnamon and lemon zest. Delicious coffee No.2 was had today at this place called "movenpick" which apparently is a swiss brand of coffee. Again, dusted with cinnamon. The picture you see here is at "Fresh Breakfast" and the coffee pictured is of the instant variety. (Kamilla, I thought of you.)

I need to figure out how to work my camera. These gave off the most lovely warm glow in this dim little alley. I don't think it's captured fully here, the beauty, that is.

I really like this picture. Little compartments of texture. I wonder what the wall says.

Rain, rain, rain!

It's been raining pretty steady for the last couple of days (what is this, Vancouver?). You go out for a bit, but then your pants get all wet and it gets a bit uncomfortable and suddenly you're at home watching Twin Peaks for hours and drinking six pots of tea. True story.

Kris update!

Kris had his first surgery today. The doctor took a tissue sample from his eye that he will use to grow cells in a pitri dish of Kris' blood. Science. As Kris put it, he lied there while "he took a knife to my eye". Kris has been brave, and I couldn't imagine what that experience was like. Overall, Kris is doing good. We're hoping the cells the doctor took today grow and thrive so that he doesn't have to get any more taken. Send positive laser beams of health and wellness this way!

L+P.

Shilin Night Market

You can see the fireworks in the background.


I need to start taking better pictures of the food, or at least some more detail shots. We went to the night market at Shilin last night, it was packed, full of things to buy, eat, drink, touch and smell. Speaking of smell, I wish there was some sort of smell-camera, because there are some pretty amazing smells to behold in the streets here: green onion and garlic sizzling in a hot pan. Steam buns sweet and soft. Boiling, rolling broth in a large pot. Skewered meat being seared on a grill. The exception is the stinky tofu. That's a real thing, and apparently it's akin to aged cheeses. It smells so, so gross.

Last night was lantern festival night, and they were letting off fireworks like crazy - except not in some designated area, just out on the street next to cars and people. A bit crazy. The night market was bright and busy and winding and packed - lots of goodies for sale. The only thing I bought, and the thing that I can now not live without, is mixed fruit with chili-salt. OMG you guys, it's like there was a party in my mouth and everyone was invited. Sweet! Spicy! Salty! Sweet! So good. So fresh and juicy. We also tried these yummy little dumplings filled with mysterious goodness. Even if I had remembered to take a picture of these, I wouldn't of had time because we gobbled them so fast.

Fur Elise.

Everyday at about now some sort of machine - possibly a parked ice cream truck - in the neighbourhood below plays Beethoven's Fur Elise (just the first doo doo doo doo doo doo doo part) over and over and over. It's gotten so that we can tell the time by it. I'm taking guesses on what you think it is. The best guess gets a post card from moi.

Sights!

This was a little display in the red house theatre. There are more little pop-up family pictures in the background and it is really lovely.

Outside of the red house theatre building. I always think of Kelsey's dog Oscar (he's a pug) when I see sculptures like this. For the record, Oscar is a handsome beast.

More graffitti. This alley was full of really interesting things for your eyeballs to look at.

Doors. I have a thing for them ever since Nicaragua. I am compelled to take pictures of them, and I give full credit to Kelsey for this inspiration.

A picture of Kris taking a picture.

Shopping!

Another day, another neighbourhood walk about. We found a good one (neighborhood) today, according to the guide book it's hip, and according to me it was pretty cool. Lot's of shopping. Based on my impression so far Taipei is all about shopping and eating. So, basically, A+.

I got this dope little necklace (see above) for my neck! Bling! We found it at this cool shop called galoop (check it out: www.galoop.com)

We also went to the Red House Theatre (thanks Mark!) and visited some great little artist shops and I got the sweet bag you see above.

After all the shopping we got hungry, and we went to this little shop and we ate what the server recommended. Probably not my go-to strategy for eating, here's what we got:

1. Soup (actually, the soup was really good)
2. Octopus tentacles and fish balls in brown curry sauce.
3. Various greasy meats, including sweet sausage and thick bacon-y meat served with rice.
4. Spinach (or similar greenery) with salty/fishy mayo.

Now I'm not saying this food was bad. It wasn't. But what I am saying is that I like vegetables better than I like greasy meat. I've learned how to say "vegetables", so hopefully there will be more of them in my belly instead of strange sweet-ish meat-stuffs.

Despite the wee-spree we went on today, we've been managing our money pretty well, I'd say.

The cutest lunar year.

I am the year of the rat, you guys. Not cute. You can put a little top hat on a rat and it's still not cute. You put a top hat on a bunny and everyone is all "Squeeee!"

I'd like to point out that, technically, it is the year of the rabbit - as in full grown adult rodent rabbit. It is not the year of the bunny. But bunnies sell. It goes sex, booze, bunnies - trust me, I work at an advertising agency (I kid. I kid.). That little bunny is everywhere. These pictures were taken on stretch of about three blocks. This city is huge. Do the math.

Cross walk.

While crossing the street in any country it is important to be alert. Taiwan is not the scariest street-crossing country I've ever been to - but I'm still on guard at all times, due to the number of scooters, bikes, cars an buses that are whizzing by or wheedling through tight alleyways. But, I have a strategy. The human shield strategy. I stick to the group, I don't walk ahead, I scan the intersection and I like to keep at least one other person between me and the traffic. I won't lie to you guys, I sidled up to this old lady and used her as a buffer between me and oncoming traffic. And I will do it again. Safety in numbers, people.

sights!

Primary colours are the best way to cure a rainy day.

A typical food stall. I'll have...that one. Cue pointing and smiling.

The year of the rabbit, arguably the cutest of the lunar years. This is a party supply store.

Back alley doorway.

This little buffet was good. We're going to come back here. Busy = good, that's our motto.